i'd like to do a 160 baud test, but i don't want to try and dig out the 85 IROC ECM. I also did not wrap some of the circuits together because not everyone is going to place their ESC, MAP, etc in the same location. since it uses the FT232RL, it should be a quality, long-lasting unit. The odds and ends are things like the ALDL wiring, putting a lug on the starter wire, power wires(3 of them), and fuel pump relay wiring. attach a male OBD1 connector (for $15 plus shipping from, or i potentially have an overseas supplier that has a cable that can be used after some tweaking for a little under $9 shipped) and you have a fully functional and professional enough looking cable.Īnyways, tested at 8192 and it works flawlessly. put it in a radioshack project box for like $3(since this came with it's own USB cable) and you're out the door with a USB ALDL cable for just under $12. Now, assuming you can get ahold of a male ALDL connector or just use the bare pins for whatever reason, you'll have 2 or 4 quick solder joints to make and then you're done. then soldering into the solder cups of a DB9 connector? also a pain. ever built a MAX232 on proto boards? they're a pain.
#Diy aldl cable diagram serial#
So anyways, before this i was using Parallax 28030 units, which are serial->USB adapters, so i converted the 8192 stuff(basically TTL?) to serial using a MAX232 circuit, then converted serial to USB using the Parallax 28030. also passes the tunerpro "test for cable" when unplugged from the car, not something i'm used to with my current cable. just went and tested it on the MC, works great. :homer:Īnd when it comes to homebrew hardware, simple is always good. Let me know if that link doesn't work, but it's what i bought a few weeks ago.Īnyways, this convenient little piece of hardware allows you to hook up to a 8192 baud ECM with 2 wires.